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Holy land of Israel
and Jordan 12 days 11 nights |
Amman(
The Capital of Jordan ):
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The seven hills of
Amman are an enchanting mixture of ancient and modern.
Honking horns give way to the beautiful call to prayer which
echoes from the stately minarets which grace the city.
Gleaming white houses, kabab stalls and cafés are
interspersed with bustling markets—known in Arabic as souqs—and
the remains of civilizations and ages long past. Sunset is
perhaps the best time to enjoy Amman, as the white buildings
of the city seem to glow in the fading warmth of the day.
The greatest charm of Amman, however, is found in the
hospitality of its residents. Visitors to Amman—and the rest
of Jordan, for that matter—are continually surprised by the
genuine warmth with which they are greeted. "Welcome in
Jordan" is a phrase visitors will not soon forget.
Amman is
built on seven hills, or jabals, each of which more or less
defines a neighborhood. Most jabals once had a traffic
circle, and although most of these have now been replaced by
traffic lights, Amman’s geography is often described in
reference to the eight circles which form the spine of the
city. First Circle is located near downtown, and the series
extends westward through Eighth Circle.
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Amman has served as the modern and ancient capital of Jordan.
It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a
1994 excavation uncovering homes and towers believed to have been built
during the Stone Age, circa 7000 BCE. There are many Biblical references to
the city, which by about 1200 BCE had become the Ammonite capital of
Rabbath-Ammon. The Ammonites fought numerous wars with Saul, David and
others.
The history of Amman between the end of its Biblical references (around 585
BCE) and the time of the Ptolemies is unclear. We do know that the city was
renamed
Philadelphia
after the Ptolemaic ruler Philadelphus in the third century BCE. After
coming under Seleucid and Nabatean rule, Philadelphia was taken by the Roman
vassal King Herod in 30 BCE. The city became part of the Decapolis League, a
loose alliance of ten Roman-ruled cities including Jerash, Gadara
(present-day Umm Qais), Pella, Arbila (Irbid) and others. Under Roman rule,
Philadelphia was replanned and reconstructed in typically grand Roman style
with a colonnaded street, baths, an amphitheater and impressive public
buildings.
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During the Byzantine
period, Philadelphia was the seat of a Christian bishop, and several
expansive churches were built. The city declined somewhat during the late
Byzantine years, and was overrun by the Persian Sassanians in 614 CE.
Their rule was short-lived, however, collapsing before the Arabian armies
of Islam around the year 635. The name of the city then returned to its
Semitic origin of Ammon, or "Amman." It remained an important stop on the
caravan routes for many years, but eventually trade patterns shifted and
dried up the lifeblood of Amman. The city declined to little more than a
provincial village for many centuries.
Amman’s "modern" history began in the late 19th century, when the Ottomans
resettled a colony of Circassian emigrants there in 1878. Many of their
descendants still reside in Amman. During that time and the early decades
of the 20th century, the neighboring city of Salt was more important as a
regional administrative and political center. However, after the Great
Arab Revolt secured the state of Transjordan, Emir Abdullah bin al-Hussein
made Amman his capital in 1921.
Since then, the city has grown by
leaps and bounds into a modern, thriving metropolis of well over a million
people. Amman’s growth has been driven largely by political events in the
region, and especially by the Arab-Israeli conflict. After the wars of
1948 and 1967, successive waves of Palestinian refugees ended up in Amman.
Moreover, the city’s population was further expanded by another wave of
immigrants arriving from Iraq and Kuwait during the 1990-91 Gulf Crisis.
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Most of Amman’s noteworthy historical sites are
clustered in the downtown area, which sits at the bottom of four of
Amman’s seven hills, or jabals. The ancient Citadel, which towers
above the city from atop Jabal al-Qala’a, is a good place to begin a
tour of the city. The Citadel is the site of ancient Rabbath-Ammon,
and excavations here have revealed numerous Roman, Byzantine and
early Islamic remains. The most impressive building of the Citadel,
known simply as al-Qasr ("the Palace"), dates back to the Islamic
Umayyad period. Its exact function is unclear, but it includes a
monumental gateway, an audience hall and four vaulted chambers. A
colonnaded street also runs through the complex. To the north and
northeast are the ruins of Umayyad palace grounds.
Close to al-Qasr
lie the remains of a small Byzantine basilica. Corinthian columns
mark the site of the church, which is thought to date from the sixth
or seventh century CE. About 100 meters south of the church is what
is thought to have been a temple of Hercules, today also known as
the Great Temple of Amman. The temple was built in the reign of the
emperor Marcus Aurelius (161-180 CE), and is currently under
restoration.
Also on Citadel Hill, just northwest of the
Temple of
Hercules,
is the Jordan Archeological Museum. This small museum houses an
excellent collection of antiquities ranging from prehistoric times
to the 15th century. There is an exhibit of the Dead Sea Scrolls, a
copy of the Mesha Stele (see Madaba section for explanation) and
four rare Iron Age sarcophagi. Museum hours are 08:30-17:00 daily.
On Fridays and official holidays the museum is open from
09:00-16:00.
Downhill from the Citadel and five minutes walk east
from downtown, the Roman Theater is the most obvious and impressive
relic of ancient Philadelphia. The theater, which was built during
the reign of Antonius Pius (138-161 CE), is cut into the northern
side of a hill that once served as a necropolis—or graveyard. It is
very similar in design to the amphitheater at Jerash, and can
accommodate 6000 spectators. The theater is still used periodically
for sporting and cultural events.
Two small museums
are built into the foundations of the Roman theater. The Jordan
Folklore Museum is in the right wing of the theater and displays a
collection of items showing the traditional life of local people. At
the other end of the theater stage, the
Museum of Popular
Traditions
displays traditional Jordanian costumes, including fine embroidery
and beautiful antique jewelry. It also houses several sixth-century
mosaics from Madaba and Jerash. The Museum of Popular Traditions is
open daily 09:00-17:00, and closed on Tuesday. The Jordan Folklore
Museum is open every day from 09:00-17:00, except Friday when its
hours are 10:00-16:00.
To the
northeast stands the small theater, or Odeon, which is still being
restored. Built at about the same time as the Roman theater, this
intimate 500-seat theater is used now as it was in Roman times, for
musical concerts. Archaeologists think that the building was
originally covered with a wooden or temporary tent roof to shield
performers and audiences from the elements. Heading southwest from
the theater complex, Philadelphia’s chief fountain, or Nymphaeum,
stands with its back to Quraysh Street. Much of the fountain, which
was completed in 191 CE, is hidden from public view by private
houses and shops. The Nymphaeum is believed to have contained a 600
square meter pool, three meters deep, which was continuously
refilled with fresh water. Jordan’s Department of Antiquities is
currently excavating the Nymphaeum, and ultimately hopes to restore
the site to its original structure by 2010.
From the Nymphaeum, the short stroll to the King
Hussein Mosque bustles with pedestrians, juice stands and vendors.
The area around the King Hussein Mosque, also known as al-Husseini
Mosque, is the heart of modern downtown Amman. The Ottoman-style
mosque was rebuilt in 1924 on the site of an ancient mosque,
probably also the site of the cathedral of Philadelphia. Between the
al-Husseini Mosque and the Citadel is Amman’s famous gold souq,
which features row after row of glittering gold treasures.
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